Back to Reality…

There is nothing more affirming than when the US Immigration official hands you your passport and says..

Welcome home, Ms Kohler…

After 4 months in Europe, calling Belgrade, Lisbon, Prague, Munich, Salzburg and Sofia home; I’m back in America. Home.

Ah, home.. time to recalibrate, take in the experience and ensure that I take all this quality growth and help transform my life. Without getting too philosophical and morose, we all do know that America (maybe the world too) is going through seismic changes in what we do, how we work, our infrastructure and our culture. Rather than acquiesce to accepting that manic corporate behavior is the norm and the only way to make a living, I jumped at dipping my toe into the nomadic pool with Remote Year’s pilot summer program. Now that it’s over (deep sigh), I’ve come back with an invigorated spirit. I can claim that my creativity has been jolted, expanded and awakened. OK, it was awesome… Here’s why

1- Discover your personal resiliency. Constant travel is not easy. Long term travel is not vacation. There are all sorts of quirky experiences that occur that can set you on your heels. You learn to take them in stride and as trite as it sounds.. roll with it.. Sometimes the outcome is totally unexpected and can be far better than ever anticipated. If you open yourself to the possibilities. It’s also comforting to know that a jaded bureaucrat in Eastern Europe is essentially the same as the jaded bureaucrat at the Florida DMV.
2- You too can live with 23kg of possessions (50.6 pounds). Yes, I did travel for 4 months with 1 suitcase weighing in at 23 kg. I did have a computer bag and a carry on (under 8 kg, just in case my luggage was lost. This would give me 3 days of clothes and ziplock bag of toiletries). You become incredibly discerning in your wardrobe choices, realizing how much you’ve spent in the past on clothing and what you really need vs. want. Less does give you more. Oh, and shoes are really, really heavy. When in doubt, wear black. Chic, utility and you can clean it together.
3– Living in the city center is great! There is a vibrancy of living in the middle of everything that is highly energizing. You find yourself an instant part of a neighborhood. People are curious about you and within a week there are smiles and interaction. You become part of the daily flow. It’s alluring and very special.
4- There is life without TV.. but I also need more Internet! Yes, a contradiction… but, I found that when you enter a new community you should be out exploring not watching TV. As a result, you walk more get more fresh air, talk to people and don’t need to sit mindlessly watching stories of people living better or worse lives, being pandered to buy products you don’t need and discovering that your life is lesser than because of overt marketing. No, thanks. Yet on the Internet side, having access to the worlds information at a few clicks has enhanced my experience. I am now completely dependent on my mobile device. Google Maps and Translate have made navigating Eastern Europe and the Cyrillic alphabet a non-issue. Data is a wonderful thing.
5- In-season, fresh food is amazing! I was pleasantly surprised to find that everywhere I stayed this summer had abundant fresh produce. Farmer’s markets or pop-up stands are prevalent. The food is fresh, incredibly flavorful and plain delicious. I made meals from a fresh succulent tomato and few sprigs of basil.
6- Our lives are completely overstimulated. Imagine that everyone around you speaks a language you do not understand. This quickly diminishes your distraction. You have no idea what they are talking about as a result you find yourself insulated in a bubble of sorts. It’s very weird, but it does help with focus. Living this way was somewhat meditative at times. You start to realize how much noise you process as soon as you are back in your own environment.
7- Do I really need a car? I had not driven for four months other than a side trip (It was on the German Autobahn which if you must drive, is the only way to drive!). Living in a city center promotes walking and mass transit. I found that I enjoyed my walking commute. It gave me an essential pause from home-to-work and got me sufficient daily exercise. You get sensible walking shoes and an umbrella. It worked.
8- Street Art! I loved the visual impact of the local street art. Each destination delivered. In an Instagram age, what a better way to promote your city than street art. There also should be a call out to the city gardens, statuary and green spaces that punctuated every city. Each was captivating. I took over 4500 pictures! Most of my art images are outdoor murals, not curated museum pieces. I’d like to include street music in the same. I’ll never forget a cellist on Sofia’s pedestrian street, attacking AC/DC’s Back in Black with the verve of Rachmaninoff. Perfection
9- Cool people are everywhere… I knew I would meet people on Remote Year. I was pleasantly surprised to also meet and befriend locals and expats. After a certain point in life, it is very difficult to meet new people. The opportunity to make new friends diminishes. This was the highlight of my experience.
10- My work opportunity expanded. I developed two separate business streams that are gaining momentum and traction. Big difference than my corporate resume. This is the point where to demonstrate that I fully understand marketing process, I will refer this as the final step that brings feedback to the first step.. Discover your personal resiliency. A year ago, I would have led any work-life discussion with work. I’ve turned the corner, where life finally leads and work fuels it. I guess I am trainable.

Net- If you get the opportunity to work offshore for 4-months, take it.

You will not regret it. It will be challenging at times, but there is real growth there. The benefits are huge. I re-discovered my abilities, expanded my tapestry of experiences and believe that my work has never been better. I’ve met wonderful, talented, funny and caring people that have enriched my heart and nourished my soul. I dream big again.

It’s interesting when the physical workplace barriers are removed. You become free range and suddenly the possibilities are endless. Embrace it, see the world and discover.

Thank y’all for sharing my journey, look forward to seeing you on the road. I’m thinking Australia, Thailand or Bali for the next rev.. any recommendations?

Finishing the summer in Sofia!

Summer is starting to wind down on Remote Year…sigh… This is stop 4 on my work from Europe summer tour and I’m smack in the middle of Sofia (Bulgaria)! Hard to believe it’s coming to an end, but first let me tell y’all about Sofia

Cathedral of St Alexandar Nevski

For the uninitiated, Sofia is the capital of Bulgaria (sits on the Balkan peninsula with Greece and Turkey to the south). This month I have a smart and highly-sometimes-efficient flat step away from the pedestrian Vitosha Boulevard, the entrance is tucked between a jewelry store specializing in sterling and stylish women’s boutique (all my basic needs). You have to precisely know where you’re going to gain access: unassuming and incredibly convenient. Most of the accommodations I’ve had in Eastern Europe have had very utility entrances. These are not known for curb appeal. There are no flower pots, colorful awnings or even doormats.  I like the obscurity. The pull is not the exterior, it’s the reveal inside. My unit does not disappoint. I have the consummate water closet (WC).. yes, all three basic pieces of plumbing are in one unit (you are allowed to laugh). Admittedly, shaving legs has never been easier and it is a challenge to keep the toilet tissue dry, enough said!  My kitchen is new, compact and ergonomically designed. I do believe that IKEA has had a hand in the layout and is in evidence with their basic kitchen dishes, cookware and cutlery. Essentially, IKEA has outfitted every apartment I’ve had this summer. They appear to be part of the overarching continuity. I am convinced that I’m one step away from actually living in the IKEA showroom. It’s sleek, affordable and vastly comfortable. I’m a fan. Oh, and I have a single unit that is both a washer and dryer. It does take absolutely forever to complete a full cycle, yet.. incredibly efficient. I’m sold on the compactness of these apartments. They completely serve all my needs, have ample room, tons of accessible storage and the city access is incredible. I’m living in about 400 sq ft and really liking it. Go figure!

 I discovered that I adore European café life and this month continues to deliver. The Vitosha Boulevard expanse is reminiscent of Barcelona’s Las Ramblas; it’s peppered with cafes, restaurants, gelato stands and excellent people watching. People are out from early morning to the wee hours (maybe they never go home), walking, socializing (and yes, there might be some serious drinking), enjoying the last days of summer. It’s a very special place. You can buy a draught glass of wine (that’s what they call it: draught wine. it’s wine by the glass and there is usually just one or two available) or experiment with the extensive varieties of bottled product. Local wines are tasty and rather inexpensive. Buy the bottle or two! (Remember, it’s a pedestrian street… no driving).  Bulgarian cuisine is a mix of meat, fresh fish (mostly trout), meat, hearty helpings of grilled potatoes, meat and salads.. specialty being the Shopska (tomato, cucumber, onion and heaps of local white feta cheese- recipe attached for fun). Fun moment: I’ve learned to bone my Trout, while dining at restaurant that caught the fish from the adjacent brook (doesn’t get much fresher than brook-to-table). Bulgarian yogurt is sheep or goat milk based and challenges Greek style (watch out Chiobani). Fresh produce stands are very popular even in the city. It’s been a treat to get this fresh of food daily. Oh, and if anyone is to offer you Bulgarian Tard.. you must try it.. This month in keeping with learning to cook something new and local, I got to attend a vegan dessert workshop and I’ve got several new recipes for pastry infused with Bulgarian rose oil… amazing.

National Theater on the way to work!

Ok, I’ve got a great apartment in the best location.. the icing for this month is my walking commute. I get to saunter down Vitosha (remember pedestrian street), cross over into a beautiful city park that houses the National Theater, series of fountains and historic statues, past the opulent Cathedral Saint Alexandar Nevski, then there’s a zig-zag through some funky construction (pedestrians and workers do mingle together in the construction zone. It’s odd to me, yet works for them. Be sure to watch your step. It is your responsibility to make sure you don’t get hurt)  to the office. It’s a treat and I am thoroughly enjoying the 20 minutes it takes to segue from home to work. Work is a fully tricked out facility including an expresso machine and a calming courtyard.  Here’s the secret, you can work for a few hours then take a break and go to the National Art Gallery to get inspired. There are also local artists with their wares for sale in the park next to the cathedral. Imagine the chance to discover the next great Bulgarian Expressionist!

Rila Monastery, a UNESCO site about a hour drive outside Sofia and worth the trip

Bulgaria… It is a little gritty, rough around the edges, yet alluring at the same time. The mountains are beautiful and offer a nice respite from busy city life. You are an inexpensive cab ride to a trailhead from the city center. There’s a definite deference to nature: hiking, natural springs and an expansive landscape. I’ve seen stunning sunrises, sunsets and the fabulous Corn Moon rise over the city. There are abundant fields just outside the city of sunflowers currently in seed, yet there are a few late bloomers (aren’t we all?) to give you an inkling of how lush and dramatic the yellow color was a month ago. Sunflowers are grown not only for their beauty but for cooking oil and bio fuels. The other cash crop is the elusive and aromatic Bulgarian rose. These are harvested in the midlands in June and offers a bounty of essentials oils that are the basis for their booming cosmetic, perfume and confection segments.

It’s getting close to going home time!

As my journey winds down, there will be more on this crazy concept of nomad working, being on the fringe while living abroad, expanding your viewpoints and my personal favorite: learning to live with less!  Thanks for coming along for the ride. I’ve enjoying having you.  

-C

A very Foo Fighters Birthday

 I’m learning to walk again! Thank you, Dave Grohl..

Tomorrow I’ll be coming to the end of another path around the sun. As with most women of a certain age, I have a love-hate relationship with my birthday; somehow this one is just a little special. Last year was a significant milestone. I spent it as a newly laid off corporate casualty and owning a fabulous Eames Lounge Chair that I had custom made for the big occasion (note: I bought this chair before I learned of my pending unemployment. It was non-refundable). Sucks to be me. It was a bittersweet day culminated in a huge slice of Bahama Breeze’s fresh Key Lime Pie and a spectacular sunset over the Tampa Bay causeway. Acutally… it doesn’t suck to be me.. Happy Birthday, girl…

This year I’m so far removed from Florida, my bodacious chair and corporate America, celebrating with my beautiful daughter while I continue my nomad journey in Prague. You see, this year has been one of those amazing transition years that initially appeared to be a calamitous chute, when in fact it was a golden ladder in disguise… And how does Dave Grohl play into this?

I love this song.. Walk.. Foo Fighters.. seems to be perfectly anthemic and necessary to for anyone that is trying to get their footing again or maybe find it in the first place. It’s about discovery, courage and chutzpah. (I invite you to add it to your “SJGR” Playlist). I play this song non-stop. It motivates me. It inspires me. It makes me want to get up when I think I can’t anymore.  This year, I have been determined not to have me or my life defined by negativity, past events or people. I wanted this chapter of my life to start from a position of strength, not dread.  Perhaps I have gone to extraordinary lengths to clean out the bad juju, yet it seems to be my perfect remedy.  Learning to Walk again..

My new nomad life has stretched my creativity, knocked down my reservations and paved the way to a whole new sense of discovery. I’ve found it enlightening to be physically out of my normal environment, forced to navigate a new city, currency, language, measurement system (and btw- just why isn’t the US using the metric system?), transit system and literally maintain balance on cobblestone sidewalks. You need to think, not react. It can be daunting and unforgiving. There is also a huge sense of accomplishment when you can solo a subway, make change quickly and do currency conversions unassisted (thank you, Google.. I’ve got this one). It’s like I’m playing the “Amazing Race” against myself and some days you win, some days.. well, not so much, but still learning to walk again… You can’t run, if you can’t walk.

This year has taught me that I am still continually learning. I’m learning to have patience with myself. I’m learning to be less busy and more mindful. I’m learning to be attuned to my environment. I’m learning to love me for who I am now. Quite a bit for one year, don’t you think?

It’s my birthday. I’m walking upright and starting a whole new lap around the sun. I can’t wait to see what is in store.


Dave, take us out… Walk- Foo Fighters

 

 

 

Happy 4th of July from Lisbon

 

As an American temporarily living outside the country, the thought of celebrating 4th of July is a bit melancholic… I love the 4th.. it’s one of my favorite holidays. It’s the quintessential lazy day. There are no presents required, usually entailing a party and there just might be some BBQ (OK.. maybe fried chicken, fried okra and potato salad)  involved. It’s a soft national holiday, perhaps no work and it ends with a full concert (preferably the Boston Pops.. and the 1812 Overture.. it’s the cannons and carillon and when the last cannon goes off) and a brilliant display of fireworks (note: my love is of choreographed fireworks displays, not firecrackers or errant bottle rockets that we all know terrify dogs and hurt returning veterans, be smart…OK?) illuminates the night sky. It is dazzling and it is oh, so American. Fireworks !!! Oh, and everyone in America celebrates it. It’s one of the few holidays we have that are inclusive of our entire citizenry. This year July 4 is a normal weekday in Lisbon.. no red-white-blue bunting, perhaps a picnic, but no patriotic displays. Perhaps that’s perfect punctuation for our country today. America’s in a funk too..

I’m wondering if this year marks the official start of America’s midlife crisis; that delightful time when you realize that you are not living up to you perceived potential, your life is good but lackluster, your prospects are limited and perhaps your cutest and thinnest years are past (oops, sorry.. that’s me) .. Humm, America… so what did you do..? You bought a seemingly shiny sportscar that you think makes you look cool and rich. The interesting thing about it is you don’t, we’d don’t and it’s time to take a good long look in our societal mirror and make some improvements. Yes.. we, the people…

If the premise is to Make America Great Again… perhaps America needs a bit of a midlife make over:  go on a diet, eliminate the bloat, reexamine your values and determine what it is that you want to be when you grow up. We have had an excellent run. It seems like we’re arching on the trendline and starting to decline. As a member of the Boomer generation, I and we all know what this means. Our supposed way of life is compromised, retirement was pending and we’re not as relevant as we think we should be. There’s an interesting thing that happens when you don’t stay hungry, the world starts catching up and in our case, we are being eclipsed. Our way is no longer the preferred way, business and much of manufacturing has morphed into an international digital culture. If you are not current, you are toast. After spending last month in Belgrade, I realized that America needs to get out of her funk. We have not had a war on our soil for centuries (was it the War of 1812?). Our cities have not been bombed, except for Sept 11. Our shores are safe. Instead of celebrating our good fortune, we have become isolated, xenophobic and narrow minded. Oh and I’m finding the world doesn’t care about us as much as we think they do. They care when we act stupid, bully, nation build, nation destroy and subvert their ways. There was a time when most of the world wanted what America had. This is no longer the case, sometimes they see our society as shallow, vapid and completely consumer consumption and work driven.  They see and hear that we want a wall put up to keep the Mexicans out (Ask any German about the effects of a walled society). Our problems are big (cite healthcare, new job creation, et al) and  symbolic landscaping walls aren’t the start of the remedy. It’s décor, when we need our foundation fixed. We need some serious help and I’m betting on America. We can do this.

The premise of our America is amazing. We’re a patchwork of diversity that sometimes works, sometimes resists and always surprises. We are in desperate need of a middle-aged makeover, NOT gratuitous plastic surgery and certainly not décor. We must do the big work the kind of work that starts with our core values coupled with slow and steady improvement. We all must be rowing in the same direction toward the same goals. This is the kind of work that you must earn, not buy and we must do it together. We are slow, fat and privileged. Saying Make America Great Again is repeating a marketing slogan, it does not even come close to the level of complexity, commitment and work required to regain our world stature. No one is going to give it to us. We, the people must do it.

On this 4th of July, I ask you: Are you willing to do the work?

 From Lisbon.. Wishing y’all a wonderful 4th.  Enjoy your friends, family, good food and the fireworks displays ! We’re going to have a lot of work to do to turn this sideshow around. I hope you’re up to it.

 As Kate Smith used to belt out in the World War II era… God Bless America, my home sweet home.. (yes, this is very dated..but you MUST view it.)

 

 

Bye, bye Belgrade… Part 1

Bye, Bye Belgrade… Part 1

I have to admit, I tried to have no expectations about Belgrade when I first arrived. I did get the obligatory DK Eyewitness tour book for Serbia and looked up the Top 10 things to see on Trip Advisor. It did not overwhelm. My base line was simple: post Tito, post-Soviet, non-EU, issues with Kosovo and Bosnia. Serbia sits precariously on the Balkan Peninsula with Belgrade perched at the confluence of the Danube and Sava Rivers. It’s as if it is the goodbye point to the west and a hand shake over to the East. They have been invaded, occupied and are now in yet another cycle of recovery. What I discovered is a remarkable gem on the ascent of change with an eye on their future, challenged by geopolitical change and steeped in artful expression. I’m bullish on Belgrade, it’s stolen my heart.

Belgrade has taught me…

1- Resiliency – – this city has been destroyed over 40 times and it gets up every time. Did you know Belgrade was bombed by NATO in the 1990’s? I do not believe I have met any contemporaries that lived in wartime. Bombs falling from the sky interrupting their play, only to continue after the raid ended. My country has never been bombed by a foreign power (Pearl Harbor exception and that was a military installation in 1940) and I have never lived in a war zone. My country hasn’t been invaded, dictated or lived through regime changes (although current events might question our feeling). We have always been free.
2- To enjoy my journey – You do not have to be in a hurry to be productive. I have not driven a car in a month. When you walk, taxi, bike everywhere there is no need to own a car, have a garage, car insurance, buy gas. You are also limited to where your foot power can take you. I’ve walked an average of 6 miles a day. This isn’t treadmill or gym induced, it’s free range – -fresh air
3- I really, really have to want/need something to buy it. There are two threads here. When you know you only get 22 Kg baggage limit, you stick to it (and worthy of an overall post.. learning to live in a 22-kg limit). Next because there is no driving, this means if you buy something you have to carry it. Carry it from the store to your apartment. You really think about what you buy when you must hold it for a half mile and climb over 125 combined stairs to arrive at your destination
4- Wear sensible shoes!  I thought I would never say this.. wearing sensible shoes to me is the kiss of death.. once you go sensible, you’ll never teeter on stilettos again. This might be true, but I’m all about the safety and balance sensible shoes provide. The Belgrade cityscape terrain is uneven, the streets are wonky and there are random utility pipes sticking out of the pavement. You must be aware of where you walk. It appears that people take responsibility for their walking too. There must not be a series of litigious lawyers preying and praying for pedestrian mishaps and ensuring law suits.
5- I enjoy my walking commute. There’s a very pleasant zen aspect to it. It gives me time to connect with the day, weather and fellow workers and helps me decompress from a work day. It’s an excellent transition and I have not seen one person with sidewalk rage.. Breathe in.. gently exhale.. repeat
6- I want more café life. There are numerous outdoor platforms pepper along the streets inviting people in for coffee or cocktails. People visit, they talk, they enjoy each other. I like this. It gets you out, about and laughing. The only downside is smoking.. we (Americans) don’t do it, we don’t enjoy it and second-hand smoke is everywhere. Stinky ☹
7- I do not need TV in my life. I believe the noise level of US events is making us all overly anxious, intolerant and unhappy. I like to blame it on the newsmakers, 24/7 news coverage and the ensuing commentary surrounding it. It’s a poisonous ecosystem. Not only from a news vantage but from a consumer aspect. I am not bombarded with messages designed to make me feel bad, unattractive or undesirable because I do not buy a product or watch a certain show. There is a certain calm that happens when the screaming stops. Now, I have not actively embraced local politics (and there are numerous issues big and small). I have gone apolitical; it’s a conscious temporary decision. And when you see a US ad dubbed in Serbian, it becomes very clear how ridiculous advertising is. I believe I needed a little venting.
8- We all need to take a social media break! We have upped the corporate marketing messaging construct from buy-this-product to making ourselves affected by sometimes self-inflected negativity. Be authentic and don’t compare. Be present in the world, connect with real people and use social media for good… 😊
9- Google has flattened the world. Travel has become much easier due to Maps, Translate and Search. Thank you, Google. You can ‘drop a pin’ anywhere and find people, places and taxis. My phone does speak better Serbian than I ever will while calculating currency conversions and Celsius temperatures simultaneously. It delights me. I had been wary of this part of the world mainly due to the Cyrillic alphabet (daunting). I have not encountered any situation that I could not navigate with my mobile device. And when in doubt, speak in emoji.
10- My phone is no longer a phone.. it has officially transformed to a full mobile device. It started out in the 90’s as a phone, evolved to allowing me to text.. it used to take 3 clicks to get to an “S” so you had to be really committed to text “a**hole”.. then lastly it morphed into an app station. With the adoption of the app culture, my device is now for data followed by text and yes, I can make a phone call on it. It’s a complete reverse. I’m travelling almost effortlessly with my mobile device securing a SIM card in each location at a minimal cost. I wonder if I’ll continue this when I go back.

There are a few more areas that almost demand mention, but it will have to wait. Oh, Belgrade’s taught me to be patient too. Back to work. When was the last time, you paused to reflect on your workday and really enjoyed it too?

I know… that’s the beauty of this experience.

There’s more to tell about Belgrade… the murals, music and lifestyle. I found a killer Pilates studio that took my practice to a higher level while helping me navigate living here. And I love that I can get an excellent dinner with wine for about $12 (a lot of wine) Sad to say, I only have 6 more days then we pack up and move the show to Lisbon for July. Yes, it really is as much fun as it seems. Best summer ever!