Summer is starting to wind down on Remote Year…sigh… This is stop 4 on my work from Europe summer tour and I’m smack in the middle of Sofia (Bulgaria)! Hard to believe it’s coming to an end, but first let me tell y’all about Sofia
For the uninitiated, Sofia is the capital of Bulgaria (sits on the Balkan peninsula with Greece and Turkey to the south). This month I have a smart and highly-sometimes-efficient flat step away from the pedestrian Vitosha Boulevard, the entrance is tucked between a jewelry store specializing in sterling and stylish women’s boutique (all my basic needs). You have to precisely know where you’re going to gain access: unassuming and incredibly convenient. Most of the accommodations I’ve had in Eastern Europe have had very utility entrances. These are not known for curb appeal. There are no flower pots, colorful awnings or even doormats. I like the obscurity. The pull is not the exterior, it’s the reveal inside. My unit does not disappoint. I have the consummate water closet (WC).. yes, all three basic pieces of plumbing are in one unit (you are allowed to laugh). Admittedly, shaving legs has never been easier and it is a challenge to keep the toilet tissue dry, enough said! My kitchen is new, compact and ergonomically designed. I do believe that IKEA has had a hand in the layout and is in evidence with their basic kitchen dishes, cookware and cutlery. Essentially, IKEA has outfitted every apartment I’ve had this summer. They appear to be part of the overarching continuity. I am convinced that I’m one step away from actually living in the IKEA showroom. It’s sleek, affordable and vastly comfortable. I’m a fan. Oh, and I have a single unit that is both a washer and dryer. It does take absolutely forever to complete a full cycle, yet.. incredibly efficient. I’m sold on the compactness of these apartments. They completely serve all my needs, have ample room, tons of accessible storage and the city access is incredible. I’m living in about 400 sq ft and really liking it. Go figure!
I discovered that I adore European café life and this month continues to deliver. The Vitosha Boulevard expanse is reminiscent of Barcelona’s Las Ramblas; it’s peppered with cafes, restaurants, gelato stands and excellent people watching. People are out from early morning to the wee hours (maybe they never go home), walking, socializing (and yes, there might be some serious drinking), enjoying the last days of summer. It’s a very special place. You can buy a draught glass of wine (that’s what they call it: draught wine. it’s wine by the glass and there is usually just one or two available) or experiment with the extensive varieties of bottled product. Local wines are tasty and rather inexpensive. Buy the bottle or two! (Remember, it’s a pedestrian street… no driving). Bulgarian cuisine is a mix of meat, fresh fish (mostly trout), meat, hearty helpings of grilled potatoes, meat and salads.. specialty being the Shopska (tomato, cucumber, onion and heaps of local white feta cheese- recipe attached for fun). Fun moment: I’ve learned to bone my Trout, while dining at restaurant that caught the fish from the adjacent brook (doesn’t get much fresher than brook-to-table). Bulgarian yogurt is sheep or goat milk based and challenges Greek style (watch out Chiobani). Fresh produce stands are very popular even in the city. It’s been a treat to get this fresh of food daily. Oh, and if anyone is to offer you Bulgarian Tard.. you must try it.. This month in keeping with learning to cook something new and local, I got to attend a vegan dessert workshop and I’ve got several new recipes for pastry infused with Bulgarian rose oil… amazing.
Ok, I’ve got a great apartment in the best location.. the icing for this month is my walking commute. I get to saunter down Vitosha (remember pedestrian street), cross over into a beautiful city park that houses the National Theater, series of fountains and historic statues, past the opulent Cathedral Saint Alexandar Nevski, then there’s a zig-zag through some funky construction (pedestrians and workers do mingle together in the construction zone. It’s odd to me, yet works for them. Be sure to watch your step. It is your responsibility to make sure you don’t get hurt) to the office. It’s a treat and I am thoroughly enjoying the 20 minutes it takes to segue from home to work. Work is a fully tricked out facility including an expresso machine and a calming courtyard. Here’s the secret, you can work for a few hours then take a break and go to the National Art Gallery to get inspired. There are also local artists with their wares for sale in the park next to the cathedral. Imagine the chance to discover the next great Bulgarian Expressionist!
Bulgaria… It is a little gritty, rough around the edges, yet alluring at the same time. The mountains are beautiful and offer a nice respite from busy city life. You are an inexpensive cab ride to a trailhead from the city center. There’s a definite deference to nature: hiking, natural springs and an expansive landscape. I’ve seen stunning sunrises, sunsets and the fabulous Corn Moon rise over the city. There are abundant fields just outside the city of sunflowers currently in seed, yet there are a few late bloomers (aren’t we all?) to give you an inkling of how lush and dramatic the yellow color was a month ago. Sunflowers are grown not only for their beauty but for cooking oil and bio fuels. The other cash crop is the elusive and aromatic Bulgarian rose. These are harvested in the midlands in June and offers a bounty of essentials oils that are the basis for their booming cosmetic, perfume and confection segments.
As my journey winds down, there will be more on this crazy concept of nomad working, being on the fringe while living abroad, expanding your viewpoints and my personal favorite: learning to live with less! Thanks for coming along for the ride. I’ve enjoying having you.
-C
